If I was to tell the truth, I’d say that I was absolutely horrified when I reached Naples train station. It was dirty, and littered. After our plush stay in Rome, we couldn’t believe where we had got off the train. Hearts broken and confidence wained, we reluctantly began our trip to Via Toledo – a hugely popular and crowded part of the city.

In all fairness, the apartment was in a perfect location – surrounded by hundreds of cafes and on the main high street, meaning plenty of shops and things to do. However, we couldn’t deny that we had gone from riches to rags, staying in an apartment with no air con – and not even a fan! Except the later found bottle of Limoncello in the freezer softened the blow a tad. 

However, everything changed the more we stayed there. We now describe Napoli as “unexpected” because everyday we would find something new, discover something brilliant or meet perhaps the most interesting people of our lives. More of that later. 

Via Toledo was in fact the heart of Naples, and the backstreets were the arteries all leading from the central point. When we began exploring, we started to understand that if you wanted to be part of the Neopolitan culture, then you had to explore every nook and cranny of the city itself.

  
Being typical English girls, grown up impressioned by American films – we knew that Naples was also home to a famous pizzeria – featured in one of my favourite films, “eat, pray, love”. The film follows a woman who, after deciding not to settle down, travels to Italy to “eat”, India to “pray” and Bali to “love”. In Italy she stays in Rome but goes to Naples to eat pizza – of course! 

The pizzeria was called “Da Michele”, and despite reading numerous reviews saying the wait time was at least 3 hours – we decided that it would be quiet around 9pm and there’s no way any pizza place could be that busy!! 

We were wrong of course. 

   
    
    
 
We were given a hot tip to order the pizza as a take away, and eat on the street with the locals. The tourists queued of course, whilst the locals were smart enough to sit out. Given that the evening was super super warm – we decided to do the same. 20 minutes later we had our pizza and our lifelong mission to find food which would change our lives forever began and ended with 8 slices of pizza. 

   
   
We cannot emphasise enough how amazing the pizza was. I now will forever be let down by any pizza I have ever again. So I suppose that’s a downside of trying the “best pizza in Napoli”. A large claim but one which Da Michele definitely fills. 

That same evening, we thought a few drinks should be in order. We had arrived safely and it was our last major spot before Taormina and the more relaxing beach-part of our Italian trip.  

    
 
Yet again, little did we know that we would visit this bar every night whilst in Naples and meet some of my most favourite people – never mind just Italians. The bar was a hippy joint not too far down a backstreet near our apartment! It served vegetarian food in the day and beautiful strong cocktails in the evening! We met a waiter named Luca who was one of the most fabulous people in the world. He wore a bejewelled headband and worked as a hairdresser part time too. He served us every night from then on, and on our final day there – we went back to see him to persuade him to visit us in London. He agreed of course. 

Naples was a more bar-type place where locals hung out and chilled, rather than partied in a nightclub. People would gather in the street or round terraces until 5/6 in the morning. You never ever feel alone in Naples.  

I’m just going to spam a little bit with selfies from our nights out – as there were so many, I will try pick the best few. 

   
    
     

For me, Napoli wasn’t about sight seeing or doing the tourist duty, it was about being a part of Neopolitan culture, and better yet, being accepted into it. 

I made what felt like a new friend every single day in Naples. From the local cafe staff, to the waiters at restaurants, the owners of our local hang out places, other foreigner travellers, to families. It felt like a huge hug being part of a community so solid, it’s hard to believe such solidarity exists in a fairly lonely digital world. 

A man, who later became my most favourite person there, said that “no matter where you are here, you are never alone”. And he couldn’t have been more correct. For someone who doesn’t like to be alone, I couldn’t have found a better safe haven. 

We were shown the spots and the best bars, the best places to grab some food. We were spoilt rotten by the kindness, generosity and love that we were given. I even have a place to stay whenever I return. Let me explain a little about these fascinating friends. 

One was called Pepe, which Cat decided to liken to the Pope. “You know, Papa … Pepe. Same thing”. Whether he likes it or not, he will forever remain Papa Pepe! He was an ex-parachuter for the army and was signed through conscription to fight for Italy. Upon serving his time, he joined an extreme left movement against the government and the “corrupt officials”. He does not believe in religion but in spirituality. Wearing an old Buddhist tattoo on his arm, he has travelled the world but remains forever at one in Naples. He married the most beautiful woman I have ever seen, and they moved to Spain and then Paris for her work. Pepe told us of how much he loved this woman, but as he follows his heart and his gut instinctively and has, for all his life, he recently left her to move back to Naples where his heart was born and will die. 

Pepe managed to put life into perspective in just a few short sentences. He said that in the end we all leave the world alone anyway, and he has no time for pointless ventures when in his heart of hearts, he knows what and where makes him happy. For any person, and we are all guilty of it, who has put their life and happiness on the line for the sake of someone else’s, I urge you to think of Pepe and how no matter what – you should live for you and no one else. 

The other man we met was called Alfie. He was born in New York but grew up Italian-American so spoke perfect Italian and fluent Neopolitan. He moved to Naples 17 years ago. He said that no matter where he’s been in the world – from Nicaragua to the Amazon, he has never felt as comfortable in a place than when he is in Naples. “Sometimes I think about leaving and moving back to the states to be with family but then I just leave my front door and it’s as though nowhere in the world will ever be as perfect”. I knew exactly what he meant in that moment. He was an avid surfer who lived life single so he could too do as he pleased (you can see why they are friends right?). He is an English teacher at a local university and grows his very well looked after “plants” on the side as a hobby and relaxation venture. I will leave that open to interpretation. Taking each day as it comes but booking a few months out to travel to different parts of the world he hasn’t yet seen, he knows about every culture, every region and every person. Alfie is perhaps the most inspiring person I will ever get the pleasure of meeting and for that, I am quite upset. 

Alongside Napoli being the central hub of family and community, it is also the place for food! Julia Roberts doesn’t just go here to chat – she came to eat! And we did so too!! 

   
    
    
    
 
Besides eating our weight in carbs and drinking too many cups of coffee – we also visited the island of Capri. Where Phoebe was stuck on a boat too long and took her first (no doubt not the last) burn. 

   
    
   
We managed to see the famous Blue Grotto too which is a sea cave near the Island – it was a 2 minute journey with a whopping price tag. But I suppose – the cliche saying goes – you only live once. 

   
    
 From quirky cars like the one below to a beautiful Duomo – Napoli really was the unexpected city. 
   
    
    
 And also a city I could definitely call home. Just like in my Milan post, I said it was very rare, and you were incredibly lucky to find anywhere you feel completely at ease – that same feeling I felt for Milan came back to me here in Naples. So much so that sitting here typing about my experience almost makes me feel hollow – as though Napoli made me whole. 

There are no words to express how this city operates and breathes but if you are lucky enough to be accepted, you will never feel alone again. 

I will be running back to Naples with a huge heart and a bigger appetite, but for now, the adventure must continue. 

Thank you for being my life jacket! Ciao for now. 🙋🏻

Bongiorno Taormina.